Backpacking NZ

Backpacking in New Zealand is easy. New Zealand is very well set up for tourists, including backpackers. It can however, seem sometimes that it is all designed to milk every last dollar out of you, with all the activities available.

Backpacker Bus or Fully Independent?

Getting Around Independently

Hostels

The hostels I stayed in were generally quite clean. I would recommend "Mountain House Hostel" in Arthurs Pass, "Southern Comfort Backpackers" in Invercargill. I didn't like "Dunedin Central Backpackers".
If the hostel has a key deposit, make sure you think about what time you want to leave in the morning, and check that the reception will be open at that time, otherwise you will lose your deposit.

Tramping NZ

Alone? - No problem - The major tracks in New Zealand in summer will have many people tramping on them, if you get in trouble, then you could ask someone for help. In New Zealand, make sure you fill out intentions forms at the nearest DOC office, so they will mount a search if you don't return. However, I always take an EPIRB when hiking as an added precaution. Some tracks are very rough (eg Harman Pass) and are best done in a group, even then, If you are in a hiking oriented area, (eg Arthurs pass or Te-Anau) you should be able to find some others at the hostel who will accompany you.

DOC (Department Of Conservation)

• Topographic maps of the area
• Route descriptions for the major tramps
• Hut tickets/passes
• Weather forecasts

On the day of your tramp, go to the DOC office and check the weather forecast. Whatever the forecast says, make sure you are prepared for anything from hot sun to extreme wind and rain to snow - even in the height of summer. (I had two hikes in snow in February) Fill out an intentions form, so that DOC know who to contact if you don't return, and will mount a search.

Huts

Inside of Carrington Hut

The backcountry huts in New Zealand are not like anything you would see in Australia.
The only way to get to most huts is to tramp, they are usually spaced about a day's walk apart for a medium to slow pace.
The interiors are usually plywood sheeting, and the furniture is usually all wooden.
Usually huts are placed in areas with excellent views.

• bunks with matresses
• Wooden table and bench seats
• Rainwater tank
• Sink and stainless steel benchtop for food preparation and cooking (often the sink has a tap from the rainwater tank)
• Potbelly stove for heating.
• Outside toilet (either longdrop or flush)
• Log book for writing intentions
• Coal for the stove, or an axe for cutting up firewood
• Broom for sweeping dirt from packs and clothes out of the hut
• Some huts have an assortment of pots and pans, but many have nothing
• Great walk huts also have gas cookers supplied in summer

To help keep huts clean, take your boots off outside and leave them under the covered area to avoid getting dirt and mud inside the hut.

It is worth bringing a bedroll on most tramps, since if the weather turns bad, people tend to take the easiest route out, which means huts on the route can be over crouded, some people will have to sleep on the floor.

Some huts (including all great walk huts) have wardens quarters attached. The warden performes track and hut maintenance and cleaning, collects hut tickets/passes and lets you know about saftey rules.

Some great walks must be booked in advance, especially the Milford and Routeburn (book many months ahead) and the Kepler (book well ahead if in a group).

On the Kepler track, even booking does not necessarily guarantee a bed, since the track does get closed periodically over summer because of dangerous conditions on exposed ridges.

Food & Supplies

Water

There is no shortage of water in the mountains of the south island, carry only what you need for the day. Often you can get away with not even carrying enough for the full day, if you fill up from streams.
I drank quite a lot of untreated water in New Zealands Southern Alps, with no ill effects, however it is safer to use iodine tablets to purify it.
If you choose to drink untreated water, take it from a fast flowing part of a side stream which has no huts or toilets upstream, after checking for dead animals. In the alpine areas, you can often see the snow that the water is coming from.
Huts have their own tank water supply, and are often on a river anyway.

Transport

The more popular tracks usually have organised tramper transport (including the Milford, Kepler, Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples and Rees-Dart). Other tracks don't necessarily need transport (such as the Mueller Hut and Kepler Track). Hitching to trailheads on mainroads in hiking areas should not be too difficult - in Arthurs Pass, I hitched with two others, all with big packs and we got a lift within five minutes at the start and end of the track. Hitching does obviously have dangers - one of the drivers we were picked up by was not a very good driver, and nearly had an accident on a single lane bridge.

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