Choose a diary entry31/03/2004 - Retrenched! 02/04/2004 - Farewell Lunch 03/04/2004 - Preparation 1 04/04/2004 - Preparation 2 05/04/2004 - Packing 06/04/2004 - Sydney to Hobart to Mt. Field NP 07/04/2004 - Tarn Shelf, then into the Southwest 08/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 1 - Up Alpha Moraine 09/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 2 - Lake Cygnus 10/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 3 - Lake Oberon & Square Lake 11/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 4 - Lake Oberon to Lake Cygnus 12/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 5 - Lake Cygnus to Junction Creek 13/04/2004 - Western Arthurs Hike - Day 6 - out to Mt Field NP 14/04/2004 - Back to Hobart for resupply and on to Southport 15/04/2004 - Southport, Hastings springs, Cockle Creek 16/04/2004 - South Coast Track - Day 1 - Cockle Creek to South Cape Rivulet 17/04/2004 - South Coast Track - Day 2 - South Cape Rivulet 18/04/2004 - South Coast Track - Day 3 - back to Cockle Creek, then Hobart 19/04/2004 - Hobart to Lake St. Clair 20/04/2004 - Frenchmans Cap Hike - Day 1 - to Vera Hut 21/04/2004 - Frenchmans Cap Hike - Day 2 - Tahune Hut and the Summit 22/04/2004 - Frenchmans Cap Hike - Day 3 - Tahune Hut to Vera Hut 23/04/2004 - Frenchmans Cap Hike - Day 4 - out to Derwent Bridge 24/04/2004 - Derwent Bridge / Lake St. Clair to Hobart 25/04/2004 - R&R in Hobart 26/04/2004 - Hobart, buying a new Camera 27/04/2004 - Hobart to Port Arthur 28/04/2004 - Port Arthur Historic site, then to Fortescue Bay 29/04/2004 - Tasman Trail Hike - Fortescue Bay to Eaglehawk Neck 30/04/2004 - Eaglehawk Neck to Hobart, Targa 01/05/2004 - Hobart R&R, Salamanca Markets 02/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 1 - to Wombat Flat 03/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 2 - to Mt. Ramsay 04/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 3 - Mt. Ramsay to Huskisson River 05/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 4 - Camped at Huskisson River 06/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 5 - Across the Huskisson 07/05/2004 - Tiger Trails Tarkine Hike - Day 6 - Out, then to Strahan 08/05/2004 - R&R in Strahan 09/05/2004 - Dissapointing Gordon River Cruise 10/05/2004 - Strahan, R&R, Preparation for Overland Track 11/05/2004 - Strahan to Lake St. Clair 12/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 1 - Lake St. Clair to Pine Valley Hut 13/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 2 - the Labyrinth and Acropolis 14/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 3 - Pine Valley Hut to Kia-Ora Hut 15/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 4 - Kia-Ora Hut to Mt. Ossa to Pelion Hut 16/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 5 - Pelion Hut to Windermere Hut 17/05/2004 - Overland Track - Day 6 - Windamere Hut to Cradle Mountain Village 18/05/2004 - Sick!, Cradle Mountain to Launceston 19/05/2004 - Recovery 1 20/05/2004 - Recovery 2 - Doctor, and Cataract Gorge 21/05/2004 - Recovery 3 22/05/2004 - Recovery 4 23/05/2004 - Recovery 5 24/05/2004 - Launceston to Bicheno 25/05/2004 - Freycinet Hike - Day 1 - the Hazards to Cooks Beach 26/05/2004 - Freycinet Hike - Day 2 - back to Bicheno 27/05/2004 - Exploring Bicheno 28/05/2004 - Bicheno to Launceston 29/05/2004 - Exploring Further in Launcestion 30/05/2004 - Cataract Gorge 2 31/05/2004 - Launceston to Liffey Falls to Deloraine 01/06/2004 - Trowunna, Devils Gullet, Walls of Jerusalem National Park 02/06/2004 - Walls of Jerusalem Hike - Day 1 03/06/2004 - Walls of Jerusalem - Day 2 - Out, then to Hobart 04/06/2004 - Mt. Field NP, Styx Valley & on to Triabunna 05/06/2004 - Maria Island - Day 1 06/06/2004 - Maria Island - Day 2 07/06/2004 - R&R in Launceston 08/06/2004 - Flying Back Home

Tasmania Diary

 

« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 »

Friday, April 16, 2004

South Coast Track - Day 1 - Cockle Creek to South Cape Rivulet

Today I got up and, as no-one else was up, went for a walk along the beach as the sun was coming up. It was very pretty – the sky was still clear. I walked out to a headland where there was a sculpture of a whale – the views were much more interesting though.
The weather came over cloudy, and we sat around reading and relaxing. The sun came out again, and we went and layed on the beach – it was nice, but despite the warm sun, the air and sand were still cold. while were were sitting there, we saw a pod of dolphins swip past, it was pretty cool, but they were too quick for photos.

We decided we'd walk the first day of the South Coast Track as it was not supposed to be very muddy, and was only 3.5 to 4.5 hours, hence we could even start at 1:00pm and still make camp before dark.
Jennifer had been ribbing me about taking ages to get packed in the morning, so I made sure I was packed and waiting for half an hour for them, so I could get my own back.

By 12:50 we set off, the track traverses dry bush, open grassy plains, and occasional rainforest. We saw a snake, which I came close to stepping on.
After about two hours walking this very well maintained track, we came to the Southern Ocean. We were on top of a short cliff, from which we had great views – we could see two surfers below (I don't know how they got there) and South Cape – the most southerly part of Tasmania. The road I walked on at dawn near the whale sculpture is also apparently the most southerly road on Tasmania and in Australia.

The waves in the Southern Ocean were big, but not huge. We could see cloud rolling in, and with the wind off the sea, it was fairly cold. We walked along the beach to lion rock, where there was a campsite (with toilet), and where we took the high tide route up over a bluff to the next beack. The track was a bit muddy, but not deep mud. At one point there was a lookout from a cliff which had great views.

After walking along the second beach, the track went briefly inland again past a headland, and came out on a third beach, at the end of which was South Cape Rivulet, and our intended Campsite.

There were several small campsites at the rivulet, but no toilet. As we were checking out the campsites, it started raining again – the weather here seems to force you to be unsocial, as it often rains around dinner, hence necessitating cooking from inside your tent. I ate heaps for dinner, and it was very satisfying. During the night it continued to rain, and at one stage Gaye was disturbed several times by some animal trying to get into her tent – It woke Jennifer and me as well.

[ No comments ]

Saturday, April 17, 2004

South Coast Track - Day 2 - South Cape Rivulet

Today we decided to chill out at South Cape Rivulet for the day. The morning brought alternately sunny then cloudy weather. The air was still quite cold, and we were trying to warm up in the sun. Jennifer and Gaye both had books they were reading, but I only had the "South West Tasmania" track notes book, and so got a bit bored.

In the afternoon it sprinkled rain, and I dozed. The coast is pretty, but it doesn't have the rugged punch of the Western Arthurs, nor does it have the wild seas that I had somewhat expected for Australia's most southerly point. I don’t think I want to do the whole South Coast Track, with many days of mud if the scenery is similar to the South Cape area.

[ No comments ]

Sunday, April 18, 2004

South Coast Track - Day 3 - back to Cockle Creek, then Hobart

Got going early today, back the way we'd come. The rivulet was much higher than on Friday, which was a little bit of a problem as we'd crossed it to get to the camp site. Re-crossing it, it was now thigh deep in places, with quicksand on the bottom, instead of shin deep as it had been on Friday.

The trek out went smoothly and quickly. The weather was overcast and grey. It sprinkled a few drops of rain on the way, but we made it to Cockle Creek by midday without getting wet.
After eating and drinking some beers, (I gave two to four other people who had just finished the whole south coast track) we got in the car and drove to Dover, where we had burgers, fish and chips for lunch.
We drove north for most of the afternoon, and eventually arrived at Hobart.

Jennifer was staying with her friend Tracey until her flight to the Gold Coast on Tuesday. Gaye and I dropped her off there, and went to a nearby hostel.
After showering, and relaxing for a bit, I went for a walk, and had a quick look where Jennifer was staying. Hobart is amazing – it has so many old buildings – virtually every house in the street where Jennifer was staying was a historic building of stone or old brick. Salamanca Place is amazing too, with a row of several hundred metres of early 1800's buildings – all in amazing repair.

We met up with Jennifer and went to "The Republic" hotel for a few drinks in front of the wood fire. We went and got some dinner at an indian place, then went back to the pub where there was now a band playing. We listened for a while, but left about 9:30 and went back to the hostel and bed.

[ No comments ]

Monday, April 19, 2004

Hobart to Lake St. Clair

Gaye and I had decided to do the Frenchmans Cap hike together, since we both wanted to do it.
After packing my stuff, I put a load of washing on. Gaye left and we'd arranged to meet back at the hostel at 2pm. While the washing was on, I went for a wander, looking for a bakery. I thought this would be an easy task for breakfast, but had great trouble finding a proper bakery. I t wasn't until after the washing was done, and I'd checked out that I found a full bakery "Banjos" near the camping shops.
I dropped a film in, bough some fuel and after eating by constitution dock for a bit, decided to check out the museum which was within sight to see if they had Peter Dombrovskis photos. They didn’t, but they did have a many relics and paintings which were interesting.

After some ordinary but expensive lunch, I headed over to the supermarket, which is quite a walk.
I bought plenty of food, then caught the bus back to the city, got my photos, posted some stuff home, then went back to meet Gaye.
She was running a bit late, so I just chilled in front of the hostel for a while.

After repacking the car to fit my pack in, we set off for Lake St Clair. It was quite a long drive, and was mostly with the sun in our faces. We saw many logging trucks coming the other way fully loaded. We also passed a hydro power station.
At Lake St Clair, we booked in for the campsite at the massive visitors centre, then went and set up our tents. I lit a fire with much effort, but it burned really badly as all the wood was damp and big.
The sunset on the lake was very beautiful.

It was a bit of a shame we didn't catch up with Jennifer today, could be quite a while till I see again, as I will be travelling and she has run out of money.

The possums at the campsite were amazingly brazen as they went for your food. I had to give one a hard shove to make him stop – even poking it several times only made it come from a different angle.

[ No comments ]

Tuesday, April 20, 2004

Frenchmans Cap Hike - Day 1 - to Vera Hut

After striking camp, we packed what we needed for 5 days hike and hit the road.
The trailhead of Frenchmans Cap is 30km from Lake St Clair, and has a very basic carpark and nothing else, except a sign pointing to the trail.
Gaye had stashed her valuables at Lake St Clair since as a sign in the trail head carpark said, vandals are known to break into cars here.

We got walking at about 9:45am – a bit late. The track almost immediately crossed the Franklin River on a swing bridge. The Franklin is fairly small here. The track climbs through cool rainforest then descends again to the Loddon river. During the descent, there were good views of the mountains surrounding Frenchmans Cap, and a glimpse of the Cap itself.

After the Loddon River, we came to the infamous "Sodden" Lodden Plains. They were not as flat as the plains around the Western Arthurs, and again they were not really plains, but a flat bog / marsh.
The track was very muddy – often to or above the knees. There were however a lot of sections with firmer ground.
I was finding it a bit annoying as I was continually having to wait for Gaye to catch up. The reason it was annoying however was because she was continually trying to go around all the mud holes, which took much more time, didn't do much to prevent getting muddy (even with gaiters), and destroyed vegetation in the process. I on the other hand was just wading down the middle of the mud, only going on a side track when it was so slippery as to be impossible not to. I just accepted that I was going to get muddy. One reason however that she might have wanted to go around however, was because at one point Gaye got stuck so she couldn't pull her feet out of the mud. I grabbed her pack and gave her a hand.

After the "Sodden Loddens" comes the Philps Lead, and I though the first part of this was worse than the Lodden plains, but by this stage at leas we had a goal, as there were mountains rising in front of us.
Finally the mud was over, but we still had a big hill to negotiate, climbing up over it, then down into Lake Vera. By this time, we were getting pretty tired, due to the effort expended in the mud. Finally the hut came into view.
After taking quite a while to get the mud out of my socks and boots, we got set up and had dinner. It was nice having a hut – there was no-one else there. I wasn't as good as most in New Zealand, with no matresses, or sink, but was still nice at the end of a day's hike.

There are a lot of dead trees, bleached but still standing in the area, killed by fires that have passed through in the last hundred years. The rainforest trees are not used to fire and don't survive.
The night was quite cold, it was 4°C in the hut when we woke (the thermometer is so you know when to use the stove – when the temperature is below 10°C)

[ No comments ]

« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 »  RSS

Admin login | Original script by Alex